CHRONOGRAPH. PERPETUAL CALENDAR (Reference 5270)
Patek Philippe Nautilus has always stood out as an elegant sports classic, but the perpetual calendar chronograph launched in 2011 is also a worthy successor. Our reinterpretation contains platinum, the most valuable of all metals, but also the most difficult to work with. It enhances the timeless design of the case with a concave bezel, elegantly curved lugs and pushers that are satin-finished on the sides and polished on top. The green lacquered dial with black gradient is reminiscent of the paintwork on beautiful automobiles from the 1960s. The applied hour-markers and the Dauphine hands in white gold are faceted and stand out clearly. The displays for the perpetual calendar are arranged in an incomparably harmonious way. The hand date and moon phase at 6 o’clock and a double window for the day of the week and month at 12 o’clock are complemented by two small, round windows for the day and night display and the leap year cycle. The central chronograph hand made of Pfinodal is characterized by its sandblasted, rhodium-plated, grey finish. The watch is worn on a shiny black alligator leather strap with green stitching. The caliber CH 29-535 PS Q – the first chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar developed and manufactured entirely by Patek Philippe – is characterized by its traditional architecture with manual winding, column wheel and horizontal gear wheel clutch. Six patents have been filed for the innovative chronograph with its exceptionally flat calendar mechanism (1.65 mm with 182 components). The new reference 5270P-014 replaces reference 5270P-001 and complements the two versions in yellow and rose gold that are already part of the collection.
CHRONOGRAPH. (Reference 5172G)
A new version of the hand-wound chronograph in white gold with rose gold and an opaline-colored dial is the CH 29-535 PS caliber. It adorns both men’s and women’s wrists. In 2019, the manufacture presented the white gold case with round, guilloché pushers, three-stage lugs and box-shaped sapphire crystal, combined with a blue dial and bracelet. Patek Philippe particularly emphasizes the vintage character with a rose gold opaline dial. Readability by day and night is ensured by the applied, anthracite-colored Arabic numerals and the syringe-shaped hands in gold with a white luminescent coating. The tachymeter scale printed in black on the edge makes it possible to measure speed. Here, too, we are enthusiastic about six patented innovations such as the optimized tooth profiles, improved gear penetration adjustment and self-adjusting zero-setting hammers, which can be admired through the transparent sapphire crystal case back. The new reference 5172G-010 in white gold is worn on a shiny chocolate brown alligator leather strap with a white gold folding clasp.
DATE. CENTRAL SECOND (Reference: 5226G)
A new vintage-style Calatrava model with Clous de Paris decoration once again underscores the innovative spirit and technical expertise of Patek Philippe’s watchmakers.
The new Calatrava in white gold is a representative example of Patek Philippe’s quest for perfection in all areas of watchmaking. Since 1932, the Calatrava collection has been known for its sleek and round cases, and the famous Clous de Paris decoration is an unmistakably iconic motif of the manufacture itself. To apply this guilloché decoration to the entire edge of the case, the experts at Patek came up with a special case construction in which the lugs are firmly attached to the case back. The vintage-inspired dial is anthracite-colored with a black gradient around the edge. The slightly grainy texture is reminiscent of the housings of old cameras. It features applied white gold numerals with a beige luminescent coating and a discreet track scale. The hours and minutes are indicated by syringe-like hands in white gold with a beige luminous coating. The date appears in a window at 3 o’clock, printed in beige on a black background. This new model is powered by the caliber 26-330 S C with automatic winding, displaying hours, minutes, central seconds, date window and stop seconds.
WORLD TIME CLOCK. RARE HANDCRAFT. (Reference: 5231G)
Set course for Oceania and Southeast Asia in a white gold version with enamel cloisonné: ever since the ingenious master watchmaker Louis Cottier invented the world time mechanism for Patek Philippe in 1931, the famous world time watches have often been decorated with Grand Feu cloisonné enamel maps depicting different regions of the world.
The yellow gold reference 5231J-001 launched in 2019 continued the venerable tradition with a sophisticated handcrafted decoration depicting America, Europe and Africa. Patek Philippe is now paying homage to watch fans in Southeast Asia and Oceania with the new white gold version of this model, which depicts this hemisphere in cloisonné enamel. To subtly combine geography and craftsmanship, the craftsman first traces the delicate outlines of the continents and islands with a thin gold thread. He then fills the partitions with various enamel colors that perfectly reproduce the oceans and land masses. He places the enamel plate in the oven several times at high temperatures. Four gold plates highlight the four points of the compass. The local time of the time zone selected at 12 o’clock is indicated by a circular hour hand, one of the traditional shapes of Patek Philippe’s world time watches. The minute hand is modeled after a diamond. The astonishingly flat caliber 240 HU with automatic winding and two rotating discs for the cities displays 24 time zones with one glance.
Thanks to a mechanism patented in 1999, the wearer can set the desired time zone by simply pressing the pusher at 10 o’clock. The white gold case is characterized by a narrow, polished bezel and wing-shaped lugs, which was typical for the world time watches of the 1940s and 1950s. This is complemented by a matt, navy blue strap made of alligator leather, which evokes associations with the South Seas and can be worn on the wrist securely with a white gold folding clasp.
