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28. July 2023
On the occasion of the “Watches and Wonders 2023” watch fair, the Geneva-based manufacturer is unveiling numerous new products. These range from a new Calatrava with a 24-hour display and Travel Time two-time zone mechanism to the Grandmaster Chime as an Haute Joaillerie version. This is joined by the first annual calendar for the sporty and elegant Aquanaut ladies’ collection.
“Why do we have so many collections at Patek Philippe? Each collection has its own character and is innovative. Our customers don’t always have the same taste. That’s why we have so many collections at Patek Philippe.” This is how Thierry Stern, the President of the family-owned manufacture, describes the brand’s independent philosophy in a recent advertising campaign. From the Grandes Complications to the icons of watch design to the sporty and elegant watches, Patek Philippe has an extensive collection of ladies’ and men’s watches. Over the years, the manufacture has continuously developed this range of around 150 references in a balanced manner. The individual models are produced in small series ranging from a dozen watches to several hundred pieces.
5 new refined Grandes Complications that epitomize Patek Philippe’s expertise
The specialists in chiming watches reaffirmed their leadership in 2014 with the launch of a limited edition of the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime. It was added to the current collection in 2016. With 20 complications, it is currently the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch and features five chiming functions, including two patented exclusives: an acoustic alarm that strikes the set alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the date.
The manufacture has reinterpreted the double-face reversible case with patented reversible mechanism and created a bicolor version in white and rose gold for the first time. This new Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime reference 6300GR-001 features opaline brown dials with hand-guilloché Clous de Paris decoration on the time side and a brown patinated two-tone alligator leather strap with a bicolor folding clasp. In 2022, Patek Philippe underscored the mechanical perfection of the Grandmaster Chime with two versions set with precious stones: the reference 6300/400G-001 with baguette diamonds and the reference 6300/401G-001 with diamonds and blue baguette sapphires. Now, with the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Haute Joaillerie reference 6300/403G-001, the manufacture presents a new combination of Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie. It impressively demonstrates the techniques of “baguette setting” and “invisible setting” with 118 baguette emeralds (7.87 ct) and 291 baguette diamonds (20.54 ct). The watch has two opal ebony-black dials. The time side is decorated with a hand-guilloché pattern and it is worn on a shiny black alligator strap with emerald green stitching.
Launched in 2017, the reference 5316 combines a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar with retrograde date and a moon phase display. With the new Grande Complication reference 5316/50P-001, Patek Philippe gives this watch with a platinum case and a dial made of blue metallized sapphire crystal with a fine black gradient a new, unmistakable look. The mechanical movement can be seen through the sapphire crystal. The Manufacture is launching two further minute repeaters. The world time minute repeater Haut Artisanat reference 5531G-001 beats the local time and is presented in white gold for the first time. Its dial features a Grand Feu Cloisonné enamel decoration in the center. It shows one of the famous Lake Geneva steamboats. The minute repeater Haut Artisanat reference 5178G-012 with automatic movement and cathedral gongs delivers a particularly full and rich sound. It has a dial in blue Grand Feu Flinker enamel with a hand-guilloché circular decoration.
Calatrava collection with a complicated watch and new designs
With its simple round cases, the Calatrava collection launched in 1932 has established itself as a model of timeless elegance. Over the years, Patek Philippe has expanded this model line with a whole series of complications that are particularly practical, including the Travel Time with two time zones and the weekly calendar. Now the manufacture is expanding the collection with the new Calatrava reference 5224R-001 with Travel Time dual time zone display. It is characterized by its innovative 24-hour display. The new caliber 31-260 PS FUS 24H with automatic winding impresses with its patented time zone correction for setting the local time using the crown. The rose gold case houses an elaborately finished blue dial. It features hand-applied rose gold numerals, indexes and cabochons.
Patek Philippe pilot’s watches from the 1930s inspired the Pilot models launched in 2015. The current collection includes Pilot Travel Time watches with two time zones and a Grande Complication with a 24-hour alarm. Now Patek Philippe presents the first two chronographs in this line: the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph reference 5924G-001 with a blue-gray sunburst dial and navy blue grainé calfskin strap and the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph reference 5924G-010 with a khaki green lacquered dial and olive green strap with a vintage finish.
In these two watches, the caliber CH 28-520 C FUS ticks with automatic winding and three useful complications: a flyback chronograph, two Travel Time time zones and a flyback chronograph. In these two watches, the caliber CH 28-520 C FUS ticks with automatic winding and three useful complications: a flyback chronograph, two Travel Time time zones and a flyback chronograph.
Other new models are the Calatrava references 6007G-001, 6007G-010 and 6007G-011. The ebony-black dials feature three different finishes and an embossed carbon decor in the center. This dynamic design is enhanced by subtle color accents on the dials and bracelets: Yellow for the Ref. 6007G-001, red for the Ref. 6007G-010 and light blue for the Ref. 6007G-011. The 26-330 S C movement with automatic winding, date and stop seconds ticks inside the white gold cases.
Patek Philippe is also expanding its collection of elegant ladies’ watches. The manufactory is launching a new interpretation of the classic Calatrava reference 4997/200R-001, featuring a rose gold case and a dial and bracelet in luminous purple. The dial is adorned with a motif of concentric wavy lines and more than 50 transparent lacquer applications. They create a fascinating depth effect. The case with diamond-set bezel houses the extra-flat caliber 240 with automatic winding.
Last but not least, the Aquanaut and the Aquanaut Luce also have new functions
The two sporty and elegant model lines, Nautilus (1976) and Aquanaut (1997), have become icons. In 2004, the manufactory launched the feminine Aquanaut Luce. Following the Travel Time two-time zone watch in 2021 and an automatic chronograph in 2022, the Aquanaut Luce now has a new practical complication: the patented annual calendar. With a dial and bracelet in blue-gray, the Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar reference 5261R-001 in rose gold complements the collection of complicated Patek Philippe ladies’ watches with a non-gem-set model. The new Aquanaut Luce automatic reference 5268/200R-010 for women combines a rose gold case with a taupe dial and integrated bracelet. This color perfectly matches the sporty chic of this model. The typical rounded octagonal bezel shines in the light of 48 brilliant-cut diamonds. The case is water-resistant to 120 meters and houses the automatic caliber 26-330 S C with stop-seconds function.
The automatic Aquanaut Chronograph for men was previously available in stainless steel and white gold. Now it appears with the new Aquanaut Chronograph reference 5968R-001 in rose gold with a brown sunburst dial fading into black and a matching bracelet made of composite material.
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